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The Beat of Muharram in the Heart of Iran

The Beat of Muharram in the Heart of Iran
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Nour Rida

With the coming of the Islamic New Year come tears and sadness, challenge and reform, bravery and freewill. It is in the Shia doctrine that the first ten days of the Muharram Month of the Islamic Hijri calendar are considered as key in preserving Islam.


Millions of Shia Muslims across the world are commemorating Ashura, which marks the martyrdom anniversary of Imam Hussein (PBUH), the third Shia Imam and the grandson of Prophet Mohammad.

The revolution of Imam Hussein was, according to Shia thought, to preserve Islam from being lost, and remains to be the source of Shia understanding of sacrifice, selflessness, courage, piety, and truth. One important note would be that Ashura [the tenth day of Muharram] and the massacre of Karbala not only inspired Muslims across history, but many other figures that saw Imam Hussein as an example of the revolution of the oppressed against the oppressor. Imam Hussein was killed by Yazid's 30-thousand-strong army; he was alone with his family members and companions who were all massacred while the women and children (and the sick Imam Zayn al-Abideen) were taken captive in a journey that eventually disgraced the Umayyads when Imam Hussein's sister Zeinab and his son Ali Zein al-Abideen spread the truth behind the event...

People in Iran commemorate the martyrdom of Imam Hussein with very unique rituals that result from the marriage of Shia doctrine and Iranian culture in such a manner that Ashura seems to have been localized and given a new face of Persian modernity.

Walking across Tehran, a rush runs down your spine; the intensity of the rituals, the solidarity among the people, the benevolence and goodwill reflected in the faces and actions of the people on the streets is the simplest clue to the fact that the commemoration of this martyrdom stretches far beyond crying for a leader who was killed 1,400 years ago.
 
Living the experience in the Iranian capital alone requires days to be able to see the different ceremonies and events that slightly differ from one neighborhood to another, despite them all sharing the same slogan: "We are at your service Imam Hussein".

Shirin, a Tehrani lady in her early twenties was standing at the corner of the street on Enghelab square with her brother and cousins, who are members of a "Hey'at" (which is made up of a group of people from the community), giving out hot chocolate for free. Asking her about the activity Shirin said that she distributes drinks during all ten days, because it is the simplest demonstration of solidarity with Imam Hussein and his household, a reminder of what it means to be deprived from water and perseverance to remain a community that looks after one another and understands the true message of Ashura.

Hundreds of "Shirins" have set up mourning tents, in which they also offer free water, tea, food which all comes under the title of "Nazri food". This blessed food is given free by individuals and private groups as a way of completing an offering made to God in honor of Hussein's martyrdom.

"In Tehran alone, there are around 13,000 ‘Hey'ats' or religious groups registered to make offerings of food and drinks and whether you are a merchant, a university professor, a school kid or a street artist, you take part in the ceremonies," Saeed Amirian said as he was preparing the cups to pour tea and serve it to people.

Amirian, who is a Christian Armenian said that his family and friends participate in Ashura every year, with the most important days being those commemorating the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his brother Abbas.
 
"You know, in this country, all people commemorate Ashura, and they all come together in a state of oneness; that same oneness which was a goal for people like Imam Hussein. In this country, we brag about being strong and brave like Abbas, the brother of Imam Hussein whose hands were cut off as he attempted to bring water to the women and children. In this country, we think that Imam Hussein is not exclusive to Muslims, but was sent for all humanity," said Amirian, the 40-year old man wearing his black outfit.

On the ninth day of Muharram, time stops, shops close, businesses are on hold, chores are pending, people head to the streets, mosques, mourning tents, and squares of the city to revive the memory of the family of Prophet Mohammad. Imam Hussein Square is one of the important places to see on the ninth and tenth days of Muharram.

Kourosh, a young Jewish man was among the people who took part in the ceremonies, with tears flooding from his eyes. Observing his passion and interaction as the Taziyeh (play re-enacting the events of Karbala) started, I asked Kouroush about the secret to his presence at the ceremonies especially after understanding that he and his family come every year and prepare Nazri food as well.

He slightly smiled and broke into more tears telling me "Since my sister came to this world she was unable to walk. And it was not until she was eleven years old when the miracle happened. My father who cried for days and nights was told by doctors that my sister will never walk, but he always prayed."

Kourosh went on as his hands shook "And it was the ninth night of Muharram when my sister first stepped her foot on the floor and screamed calling my dad. It was the miracle of Abal Fazl, the brother of Imam Hussein."

The young man, who says he and his family never thought about leaving Iran and that being Jewish in Iran makes you no different than any other Muslim or Christian in the country, explained that the love, bravery, patience and sincerity in the story of Karbala makes Imam Hussein, Abbas and all others role models for people despite their different religious backgrounds.

To Kourosh and others, Ashura is not just a food festival where huge amounts of food are cooked in copper pots and given out for free, nor is it a congressional ceremony of weeping and lamenting the killing of the prophet's household, but rather a school of moral values that all can relate to.

Source: al-Ahed news

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